| 1. |
Walker's
Crack
4B[5-], 25 m,6bolt,rb |
At the beginning chimney and first
crack(4b)climb, then to left of significant crack to the
top. If approached through a cave higher on the slope
the walker" Crack is just the only real beginner
climb of the Nose |
| 2. |
SandfliesKisses
6B[7],12m,5bolts,rb |
Beautiful and challenging route with a
variety of moves. Route begins with two tough
moves(6B,6B):sharp pocket for left middle finger to pull
left foot up on small ledge. Use smear for left hand to
stand up and get excellent finger pocket. Second overhang
(6+): get your feet up high and use under cling to
move1/2 mtr tot he right of 4th bolt. third overhang
(5th bolt,6B) bring legs almost to level of handhold and
stand up to reach pocket left of ring bolt. The route is
not only difficult, but in June is also infested by
nasty sandflies. |
| 3. |
Dead Man
Walking.
6B[7+],14m,4bolts,rb |
Route has its charming name
from the pounded clay chorten with ashes of the dead,
which were put in small cave 2 mtrs above beginning of
the route. Start with tricky friction plus balance moves
(6A) up to 1st bolt, crux between bolt 2&3,
tiny knobbles (finger power! 6B) to small ledge under
overhang. |
| 4. |
Once in 12
Years
6A[6+],12 m,4 bolts |
Start 5 mtrs right of Easy
Peasy at belay bolt. Route leads over series of pockets which
look better than they are) through vertical
wall. Crux (6A) just above 1st bolt. The first Red Point
climb happened on the day of a grand puja in Punakha,
which only takes place once in twelve years. |
| 5 |
Easy Peasy
5A[5+],22m,5bolts,rb |
Start in the middle of the
comfortable ledge on the right rock. Friction moves
slightly to the left to the 1st bolt, then either direct
(left, 5A) to the ledge 6 mtrs above ground or right to
flake. From flake horizontally over to the ledge (4B).
Walk 3 mtrs on ledge towards right, then follow ramp
up(4A).Then easier toward significant small roof (Looks
more difficult than it is) and over it. Easy to the top. |
| 6. |
Friction
Dance.
5A[5+],20m,5bolts,rb |
Same start as Easy Peasy,
cross over to flake until you stand at top. With some
tricky friction moves follow ridge straight up(3 bolts)
until you join Easy Peasy under the significant
overhang. |
| 7. |
Reach
N Preach
6A+[7-],27m,8bolts,rb |
With some 27mtrs length
longest route on the Nose. Elegant superb and
exposed climb on vertical right pillar of left rock.
Tricky begining(5C). Stretch carefully to reach (and
Preach) out for a small finger ledge for right hand,
more difficult for short people, traverse to the left to
1st bolt. Big hand pocket to the left, climb straightly
to the right and straight up to huge hand fold for right
hand. Crux move ("feet and Faith , 6A+) at 2nd
bolt. Get your feet up as high as possible (frog
position) and standup using under grip for left hand.
Long run out to next bolt. From there splendid and
exposed climb until top (4B/5-). |
| 8. |
Wedding Present
5A[5+],23m,6bolts,rb |
Exposed route over the two
overhanging bulges of the left rock(5m left of Reach and
Preach). Crux(5A/5+) at second overhang, afterwards
through wonderful rockeasy(3C/4-) to the top. |
| 9 |
Friends No More |
|
| 10. |
Viennese Waltz
6A[6+],12m,4bolt,rb |
Name to acknowledge the
Austrian contribution to developing the nose into a
climbing Gym. First mtr like half moon, then up and
around the significant pillar. Athletic, airy and
surprising a easy route. |
| 11. |
Half
Moon
7B[8+/9-]10m,4bolt,rb |
Athletic start
(6A+/7-]through overhang using only under grips until
left end of distinct ledge. Mantle with help of
artificial bolt to squat on ledge ("Half
Moon") (6C/7+). Rest {standing up, keeping balance
and pulling through roof (7B/8+)}still unclimbed
and no body has a clue how to do it. Guests are welcome
to red point Bhutan's most difficult climbing route. |
| 12. |
Striving
for Stability
5C(6-/6).12m,4botlt,rb |
Route starts 4mtrs to the
right of Energy Crisis. Crux between bolt 2 & 3,
where good balancing is required. Where rock gets
steeper, hand holds are excellent. 4mtrs run out on top. |
| 13 |
Energy Crisis
6B(7),12m,4bolt,rb |
On left arête of rock above
Sergei's Nose. Underneath lovely Picnic spot. Move over
ramp to arête. Straight up to huge flake which serves
good under grip. Then work your way up through overhang
using big jug above flake and flake itself (which is
forming into a crack higher up). Sufficient under
arm power and balance required. |
